irony in the tropics

been snowboarding twelve years and i've beat the shit out of myself - knee reconstruction, broken ribs, twice torn cartilege in my ribcage, 3 concussions, and a hundred other minor injuries forgotten due to the concussions. i'll never forget my best concussion

trying to leave all this behind and teaching myself to surf. it's going very well. i'm good at it.

anyway, at playa hermosa this morning around 845 the curls were plentiful and heavy. i got some waves. one got me. threw me down on top of my board.

now i have stitches in my side.

i never got stitches from snowboarding.